
I have been waiting for the pictures of this trip for the last seven years! When they finally arrived recently, I relived those four adventurous days...
It's the trip that got me christened smallix. That's what happens when you travel with a bunch of Asterix fans-turned-drifters, and you happen to be the youngest amongst them! Aimless we were, with a one-way ticket to Coorg, and in the overnight journey from Bangalore, excitement took over the blood in our veins. Misty morning. We get off the bus, and rush towards a chaya-kada. We even downed some hot crispy dosas, and then ventured forth... to nowhere in particular! There were nine of us...of all shapes and sizes, of all moods and characters. M - the ecology freak, Re - the corporate whizkid, Ani - the art guru, Shis - creativity is his second name, Sum - the globe trekker, Shas - the saint, Hafe - the laughter-spreading ayurvedic doc, Laksh - the long-haired, dead-grandma-hunting dude, and Me - the smallix!
At the local bus station, we have a huddled meeting. Where to next? There's an unused forest bunglaw right behind the hill next to Talacauvery, informs our source. With a little bit of pull, we could be the first inhabitants there in a decade. That piece of news brings cheer, so M and Hafe rush to the nearest PCO to make that most important call. Ten minutes, and they return, the mirth on their faces revealing all. How do we get there? We take the first local bus to Bhagamandala, located about 33 km from Madikeri. Government and private buses are available on all of these routes frequently, and we take the first private bus we get. There are only a handful of localites on this early morning bus, and since Laksh is not happy with the bus driver's choice of music, he treats them to an earfull of Iron Maiden. The peace and quite of the countryside comes crashing down, people in the bus have no clue what hit them!
Bhagamandala is situated at the confluence of two rivers, the Kaveri and the Kanika. A third river, the Sujyothi is said to join from underground. The temple here, built in Kerala style, has smaller shrines dedicated to various gods. We take the trekker's route up to Talacauvery. It's 8kms up the hill, and at the end of it, we find the abandoned forest bungalow. There's a watchman residing nearby, in a small tiled home. He, his wife, their little son, and their brat of a dog live there. The bunglow is far from decrepit, but quite a ramshackle. The taps in the toilets has run dry, and the mattresses on the cots seem to have had rats as guests all this while. Tiles way above my head, red-oxide under my feet, and dense forest all around. The watchman's wife comes in, points to the well outside and a bucket nearby. "This should suffice for your early morning rituals." There's silence in the group, and finally, someone says, "welcome to the lost world." We don't sleep that night. We soak in the silence, and the rustling of the trees. Laksh sits staring out of the window, a beedi in one hand. "What are you thinking," someone asks. "I'm looking for my grandmother's ghost."
We spend the next day trekking up another hill, stop at the Talacauvery temple, and have simple rice, rasam and cabbage palya at a shed hotel nearby. Was it the hunger? Nah! The food really did taste divine! We head back to Bhagamandala the next day and decide to go to Kushalnagar, home to the Tibetans, Nisargadhama, and plenty of other surprises...Instead of getting off at the bus stop, we get off much ahead in the highway. Walking aimlessly, we bump into Bhojanna, sloshed beyond his wits, in a drunken stupor. "Where are you kids off to?" We are looking for a river, we reply. "Come, I'll take you there." I can't imagine what made us follow him, but follow we did, for the next 3 kms. Enroute, we see the ruins of a temple, replete with carvings and pillars, green meadows, and children floating tiny paper boats on flowing streams on the sideways. We realised it may not really be a bad idea to follow a drunkard afterall. But nothing prepared us for the sight that lay ahead.
Around 6 elephants, 2 baby elephants, and a bunch of boys bathing them on the banks of the river Kaveri. It took us but a few minutes to hop, skip and ruuuun to them. We get talking to the boys, and we realise we are in Dubare, the elephant forest camp. Seven years back, this camp was still a hidden spot, untapped by commercialism and no tourists. Playing with the elephants, and bathing in the river was joy unparalleled, and a dream come true! Meeting Prajna Chowta was interesting. This lady had given up a glorious career and life in France, and had settled down in this Indian countryside to care for elephants! Yes, inspiration did come knocking! From naturalism to orientalism. The radiant gold of the pointed Buddhist temples are visible from a distance. The warmth and camaraderie of the Tibetans is endearing as we go in. The colors, the patterns, the monasteries, and the little monks, their smiles and even the dragons on the walls are all enchanting. I miss snow-capped mountains, but as I close my eyes, sitting cross-legged inside the monastery, listening to the chants - it doesn't matter. I am in Tibet. Later in the evening, we walk back to the highway and stop at a small restaurant. Hot akki-rotis with red chutney fill our stomachs. There's nothing much to talk now. We have had our four days of riot, and it will be a long while before we can even think of something better to come. It's time to take that bus back...